Analysis of Breaking Wave Characteristic To Prevent Shoreline Damage

International Journal of Civil Engineering

© 2021 by SSRG - IJCE Journal

Volume 8 Issue 10

Year of Publication : 2021

Authors : Tommy Jansen, Grace Malingkas, Pingkan Pratasis

10.14445/23488352/IJCE-V8I10P104

How to Cite?

Tommy Jansen, Grace Malingkas, Pingkan Pratasis, "Analysis of Breaking Wave Characteristic To Prevent Shoreline Damage," SSRG International Journal of Civil Engineering, vol. 8,  no. 10, pp. 23-30, 2021. Crossref, https://doi.org/10.14445/23488352/IJCE-V8I10P104

Abstract:

The existence of the beach naturally, where there is a dynamic interaction between water and wind and its constituent materials, causes the vulnerability of the beach to changes in the form of damage to coastal areas. Changes in the coastline and damage are dominated by the breaking waves and natural conditions of the beach. Research into the characteristics of breaking waves and the effects of their dynamism on the occurrence of coastal damage needs to be done.
Analysis of the characteristics of breaking waves on the coast of Atep Oki using wind data for 11 years (2001-2011) obtained fetch along 785.68 km and height of breaking wave by 1,723m at a maximum depth of 1.94m with uprush and back rush wave effect on shoreline displacement of 21.62m and plunging as the breaking wave type with surf similarity coefficient ˃ 0.4. Indicated that the beach has the potential for damage so that prevention can be done by, among others, making beach safety buildings.

Keywords:

breaking wave characteristics, shoreline damage

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